Something Happened.
And You Don't Trust Them Anymore.

Hairline cracks in a crown are normal — concrete cracks over time from heat cycling and weather. A company that sees hairline cracks and says "emergency rebuild" is overselling. What actually matters: Is water getting through? Is the crack widening? Are pieces separating? Small cracks get sealed. Major cracks with separation get repaired. Full rebuilds are for crowns that are genuinely failing — crumbling, missing chunks, or letting water pour into the flue. If someone quotes you a full crown rebuild for hairline cracks, get a second opinion.

Spalling is when the face of a brick flakes off — usually from water getting in and freezing. A few spalling bricks on a chimney is cosmetic. It looks bad but isn't dangerous. It becomes structural when the spalling is deep (losing more than half the brick), when it's affecting many bricks in a concentrated area, or when mortar joints around them are also failing. The upsell pattern: Companies show you 2-3 spalling bricks and quote a full chimney rebuild. The real fix is usually replacing those specific bricks and waterproofing.

Tuckpointing is replacing deteriorated mortar between bricks. It's real maintenance — mortar erodes over decades from weather. When it's necessary: You can push your finger into the mortar and it crumbles, or mortar is recessed more than 1/4 inch, or you see visible gaps. When it's oversold: Surface-level weathering on mortar that's still solid. If someone says your entire chimney needs tuckpointing because of a few rough-looking joints, have someone else look. Most chimneys need selective tuckpointing, not full repointing.

Code says a chimney must be 3 feet above the roof where it exits and 2 feet taller than anything within 10 feet. If your chimney has worked fine for 20 years and meets code, you don't need an extension. Companies sometimes sell extensions for "draft improvement" when the real draft issue is negative pressure in the house, a dirty flue, or a damper problem — things that cost a fraction of what an extension costs. Extensions are for chimneys that genuinely don't meet code or have documented, measurable draft failures that can't be solved any other way.

Some older chimneys have a slight lean. If it's been that way for decades and isn't getting worse, it's settlement — not failure. What actually matters: Is it actively moving? Are new cracks appearing at the roofline? Is the gap between chimney and house increasing? If yes — that's structural and needs evaluation. If it's been leaning slightly for 30 years and nothing's changing, it's cosmetic. A company that sees a slight lean and says "emergency tear-down" is overselling.

Water near your chimney inside the house could be the chimney — or it could be the roof. The difference: If water appears during rain and there's staining on the ceiling near the chimney, it's likely flashing or the chimney itself. If water appears only during heavy driving rain from one direction, it might be the roof. A chimney company that says "you need full flashing replacement" without ruling out the roof first is guessing. What we do: Camera inside, visual outside, and we trace the actual water path before quoting anything.

Flashing is the metal that seals the gap between your chimney and roof. When it fails, water gets in. The upsell: Companies quote full flashing replacement ($1,500-$3,000+) when the actual failure is a sealant joint that costs $200-$400 to fix. Full replacement is for flashing that's corroded through, improperly installed, or missing sections. Sealant repair is for intact flashing with failed joints. Ask to see the damage. If they can't show you corroded metal, you probably need a repair, not a replacement.

Counterflashing is the upper layer that tucks into the mortar joint. Some companies will say your counterflashing is "not up to code" to justify a full redo. Reality: If the counterflashing isn't leaking, it's working. Older installations that use sealant instead of cut mortar joints can last decades. The question isn't "is it textbook perfect" — it's "is it keeping water out." If yes, leave it alone.

Galvanized chase covers rust over time. Surface rust is cosmetic. It becomes a problem when the rust creates holes or the metal is thin enough to flex and pool water. The pattern: Company sees surface rust, quotes $2,000+ stainless replacement. Reality: surface rust can be sealed and the cover can last years longer. Replacement is for covers that are rusted through, warped, or actively leaking. Ask them to show you the holes.

Yes — but not the $800 custom one they're selling. A chimney cap keeps rain, animals, and debris out of your flue. A basic stainless steel cap does the job. Fancy multi-flue copper caps are aesthetic choices, not safety requirements. If someone tells you that you need a specific premium cap for "safety reasons," ask what specific risk a standard cap doesn't cover. Usually, the answer is: none.

An uncapped chimney can let in raccoons, birds, and squirrels. That's real. But a basic cap with mesh screening solves it. Companies sometimes use animal entry risk to sell full chimney top rebuilds, custom chase covers, or premium caps. If you hear scratching or smell something odd, you probably need: an animal removal, a cleaning, and a standard cap. Not a $3,000 project.

A stainless liner is a real thing that's sometimes genuinely needed — when clay tiles are cracked bad enough to let combustion gases into your home, or when you're switching fuel types (gas to wood, etc.). The upsell: Companies see minor clay tile cracks on camera and quote $3,000-$8,000 relining. Reality: Minor cracks in clay tiles are common and not always dangerous. What matters is: are the cracks allowing gases to escape the flue into the chimney structure? That requires a specific test. If they can't prove gas is escaping, you may not need a reline.

Clay tiles expand and contract with heat. Over decades, they crack. Hairline cracks that don't go all the way through are monitoring items, not emergencies. Critical cracks are through-cracks where you can see daylight or material behind the tile, cracks with displacement (tiles shifted), or broken/collapsed sections. A camera inspection shows the difference clearly — which is why we show you the screen and explain what you're looking at.

Gas appliances produce acidic condensation that eats unlined masonry. Wood produces high heat and creosote. They need different liners. If you converted from wood to gas and the chimney was never relined, you may have a slow-motion problem. But "may" isn't "definitely." This is where a camera inspection and honest assessment matters — not a fear-based quote.

Refractory panels in prefab fireplaces crack from heat — that's what they do. Hairline cracks and surface crazing are normal. It becomes a concern when cracks go all the way through, pieces are missing or falling out, or you can see the metal firebox behind the panel. A company that says "your firebox is cracking, you need a full replacement" for normal heat stress cracks is overselling. Look for: through-cracks, missing pieces, exposed metal.

A damper controls airflow. If it's stuck open, you're losing heated/cooled air up the chimney — that's an energy issue, not a safety emergency. If it's stuck closed and you try to use the fireplace, that's a problem (smoke in the house). Fix options: Repair the existing throat damper (cheapest), or install a top-seal damper that also acts as a rain cap (more expensive but solves two problems). Companies sometimes quote both a new damper AND a new cap when a top-seal damper does both.

The smoke chamber is the area above your damper that narrows into the flue. Older ones were built with stepped bricks (corbeled). Parging means smoothing them over. Is it ideal? Yes — smooth chambers draft better and are easier to clean. Is it urgent? Almost never. If your fireplace works fine, drafts properly, and you're not having smoke problems, parging is a "nice to have" — not a must. If someone puts it on your quote as a required item, ask what problem it solves.

90% of the time, it's the thermocouple or thermopile. These are cheap parts ($15-$50) that sense heat and tell the gas valve to stay open. They wear out. Replacing them is a straightforward repair. The upsell: "Your gas valve is failing, you need a whole new valve assembly" ($400-$800). Before agreeing to a valve replacement, ask if they tested the thermocouple/thermopile output with a multimeter. If they didn't test, they're guessing.

A slight gas smell when a unit first lights is often normal (unburned gas at ignition). A persistent smell while operating or when the unit is off is not normal. It could be: a loose appliance connection, a failing valve, or an actual gas line issue. Critical distinction: We diagnose and repair the appliance and its connections. If the gas line itself (the pipe in the wall) is the problem, that's licensed plumber territory. We identify the source and coordinate the right professional. We don't pretend to do everything.

Appliance work (what we do): valves, igniters, thermocouples, burners, fans, controls, remote systems, cleaning, maintenance, safety checks — everything that's part of the fireplace unit itself. Gas line work (licensed plumber): running new gas pipe, modifying gas lines, connecting new gas drops, fixing leaks in the piping that runs through your walls. Some companies blur this line. We don't. Your safety depends on the right person doing the right work.

Vent-free fireplaces burn gas indoors with no chimney. They're legal in Tennessee but controversial. They produce moisture and combustion byproducts inside your home. If you have one: keep it maintained, use it in ventilated rooms, and don't run it as your primary heat source for extended periods. If someone tries to sell you a vent-free unit as "just as safe as vented" — they're leaving out important context.

A smoking fireplace is annoying but the cause is usually simple: dirty flue (creosote restricting airflow), damper not opening fully, negative pressure in the house (bathroom fans, range hoods, and tight insulation pulling air down the chimney instead of up), or cold flue (prime it by lighting newspaper first to warm the column of air). These fixes cost $0-$300. Companies that jump to "you need a new liner" or "chimney extension" for a smoking problem without checking the basics first are skipping steps to get to the big ticket.

Modern homes are tight — sealed windows, insulated walls, weather-stripping everywhere. When exhaust fans run (bathroom, kitchen, dryer), they pull air out of the house. The house needs to replace that air from somewhere — and sometimes it pulls it down the chimney. The fix: crack a window near the fireplace when using it, or install a makeup air supply. Cost: free to a few hundred dollars. The upsell: "You need a new chimney liner because of draft issues." If nobody checked for negative pressure first, they skipped the most common cause.

White staining on brick (efflorescence) is mineral deposits left behind as water evaporates. It means water is moving through the masonry — which is worth investigating. But efflorescence itself is not damage. It's a symptom. The question is: where's the water coming from? It could be a missing cap, failed flashing, cracked crown, or just natural absorption during heavy rain. Fix the water source, the efflorescence stops. Companies that treat efflorescence as an emergency are responding to a symptom, not a problem.

Chimney waterproofing (breathable sealant) can extend masonry life in areas with heavy freeze-thaw cycles — like Nashville. It lets moisture out but not in. When it's worth it: After repairs, on exposed chimneys with no overhang, and on masonry showing early signs of water absorption. When it's wasted: On brand-new masonry, on chimneys with active leaks (fix the leak first), or as a substitute for actual repairs. Waterproofing doesn't fix cracked crowns or failed flashing.

Moisture around a gas appliance chimney can be condensation, not a leak. Gas combustion produces water vapor. If the flue is cold or oversized, that vapor condenses inside the chimney. It looks like a leak but the roof and flashing are fine. The test: Does it happen only during or after appliance use? Does it happen on cold days? If yes — it's likely condensation, and the fix might be a properly sized liner, not flashing work.

Stage 1: Light, flaky soot. Normal. Brushes off easily. Clean annually. Stage 2: Shiny, tar-like buildup. Harder to remove. Means incomplete combustion or poor draft. Needs attention. Stage 3: Glazed, hardened, fuel-like coating. This is the one that catches fire. It doesn't brush off — it has to be chemically treated or mechanically removed. If a company says "stage 3 glazed creosote" without showing you on camera, ask to see it. Stage 3 is real but rare in regularly maintained chimneys.

The standard recommendation is annually if you use the fireplace. That's real advice, not an upsell. But "annually" means once a year — not "every 6 months" or "after every 50 fires" like some companies push. If you use your fireplace occasionally (10-20 fires/season), annual is fine. If you burn daily all winter, you might benefit from mid-season inspection. If you haven't burned in 2 years, you still want a sweep before lighting up — animals nest in idle chimneys.

Level 1: Visual inspection of accessible areas. This is your annual checkup — looking at what's visible. Level 2: Includes camera inspection inside the flue, checking accessible areas in attics and crawl spaces. Required after a house sale, chimney fire, or when changing fuel type. The upsell: Companies sometimes charge Level 2 prices for Level 1 work, or recommend Level 2 "just to be safe" every year. Annual use with no changes = Level 1 is fine.

"Unsafe" is the most overused word in chimney sales. It shuts down questions. It creates urgency. It makes you afraid to wait. When it's legitimate: Active gas leaks, structural collapse risk, blocked flue with active use. When it's a sales tool: Hairline cracks labeled "unsafe." Normal wear called "unsafe." Anything that "could" be a problem in some theoretical scenario called "unsafe." If someone calls something unsafe, ask: "Unsafe how? What specifically will happen, and over what timeframe?" A real professional can answer that clearly. A salesperson can't.

Common patterns: Bundling — wrapping 3 separate items into one line item so you can't compare prices. Fear stacking — listing every possible issue as urgent to create a massive total. Good/better/best where "good" is intentionally inadequate — making you feel like you have to choose the expensive option. Percentage markups on materials — a $50 part billed at $300 "installed." The fix: ask for itemized quotes, ask what's urgent vs. what can wait, and get a second opinion on anything over $2,000.

Building codes evolve. A chimney built in 1985 doesn't meet 2024 code — but that doesn't make it unsafe. Most older systems are "grandfathered" — they met the code when installed and function safely. The pattern: "Your chimney isn't up to current code" → large quote to bring everything to current standards. Reality: Code upgrades are typically only required during major modifications, not routine maintenance. "Recommended" upgrades and "required" upgrades are not the same thing. Ask: "Is this required by code for my situation, or is this a recommendation?"

If your chimney was built to the code of its era and hasn't been modified, it's grandfathered. It only needs to meet current code if you make substantial changes. "Substantial" has specific definitions that vary by jurisdiction. A company that says your entire chimney "must" be brought up to current code for a routine repair is likely either wrong or overselling. Get the specific code citation in writing.

Urgent: Active gas leak, structural collapse risk, blocked flue with active use, chimney fire evidence. Fix now. Maintenance: Cracked crown, deteriorating mortar, worn flashing, creosote buildup. Plan and budget — these get worse over time but aren't emergencies. Optional: Cosmetic repairs, upgrades beyond code requirement, efficiency improvements. Nice to have. Every item on your quote should be in one of these categories. If a company puts everything in "urgent," that's a red flag.

Repair when: the component is still fundamentally sound, the damage is localized, and repair cost is less than 40-50% of replacement. Replace when: the component has failed (not just aged), repairs would be temporary, or you're spending more on repeated fixes than replacement would cost. Watch for: "It's not worth repairing" on components that clearly can be repaired. Sometimes repair is fine for years. Not everything needs to be new.

After a storm, some companies canvas neighborhoods offering "free storm damage inspections" — then write up everything they find (including years of normal wear) as storm damage. The truth: Storms can displace flashing, knock off caps, crack crowns, and dislodge bricks. What storms don't do: cause creosote buildup, create 20 years of mortar erosion, or crack clay tiles inside the flue. If a post-storm quote includes interior flue work and tuckpointing, those probably aren't storm-related. We document what's genuinely storm-caused vs. what was already there — because your insurance adjuster will figure it out anyway, and dishonest claims hurt everyone.

We document everything — photos, video, written assessment. What we can do: Give you thorough documentation of storm-related damage. What we can't do: Guarantee your claim gets approved, act as your insurance adjuster, or inflate reports to get a bigger payout. Any company that promises insurance approval is either lying or doesn't understand how insurance works. We give you honest documentation and let the process work.

Average furnace lifespan is 15-25 years. But age alone isn't a reason to replace. What matters: Is it heating your home? Are repair costs escalating? Is the heat exchanger cracked (verified, not assumed)? A 20-year-old furnace running strong is better than a brand-new one you didn't need. The sales pitch: "It's old, parts are getting hard to find, better to replace now before winter." Translation: they want to sell a $6,000-$12,000 system. If it's running fine, maintain it. Replace when it actually fails or when repair costs exceed 50% of replacement value.

"Your system is only 80% efficient — a new one is 96%!" That 16% difference sounds huge. In real dollars: On an average Nashville gas bill, upgrading from 80% to 96% efficiency saves roughly $150-$300/year. A new high-efficiency system costs $6,000-$12,000. That's a 20-40 year payback period — longer than the new system will last. Efficiency upgrades make sense when you're already replacing. They rarely make financial sense as the primary reason to replace a working system.

R-22 (Freon) was phased out of production. Companies use this to push AC replacements: "You can't get R-22 anymore, you need a new system." Reality: Reclaimed R-22 is available and legal. It costs more than it used to, but topping off an R-22 system is still far cheaper than a full system replacement. Replace when the compressor fails, not because of the refrigerant type. If you're told "R-22 is illegal" — that's not accurate. Manufacturing it is banned. Using existing supply isn't.

You see an ad for a $79 HVAC tune-up. A technician comes out, opens panels, takes photos, and then sits down with a concerned look. "I found some issues." Within 30 minutes, you're looking at a $3,000-$5,000 quote for a coil cleaning, capacitor replacement, "safety repairs," and a system that "won't make it through the winter." This is the model. The $79 is a door-opener — the company loses money on it by design. The profit comes from the upsell inside your house. Not every company does this. But enough do that you should know the pattern.

Evaporator coil cleaning: Sometimes genuinely needed (dirty coils reduce efficiency and can freeze). But a photo of a slightly dusty coil isn't "critical cleaning needed." Ask: is the system actually performing poorly, or does the coil just look like a coil that's been used? Duct replacement: Ducts last 20-30 years. Unless they're crushed, disconnected, or have massive leaks, "your ducts need replacing" is usually an upsell. Duct sealing (fixing leaks) costs a fraction of replacement and solves most airflow issues.

The EPA's official position: duct cleaning has never been shown to prevent health problems. That said, it makes sense after construction/renovation (drywall dust in ducts), if there's visible mold growth, or after rodent/pest infestation. It does NOT make sense as annual maintenance, because someone told you dust = health risk, or because a $49 cleaning deal showed up in your mailbox. That $49 deal works the same way as the $79 HVAC tune-up — it's a door opener for upsells.

Common causes of uneven heating/cooling: dirty filter (change it — this is the #1 fix), restricted return air (furniture blocking vents, closed doors), leaky ducts in unconditioned spaces (attic, crawlspace), and original ductwork design that was undersized. Most airflow problems are filter + return air issues that cost $0-$50 to fix. Ductwork redesign or system replacement should be the last resort, not the first recommendation.

Mold needs moisture and organic material. Metal ducts don't provide organic material — so if there's mold IN your ducts, there's a moisture problem first. Fix the moisture source (usually condensation from poor insulation on ducts), then clean. Companies that find "mold" in ducts and quote $3,000-$8,000 remediation without identifying the moisture source are treating a symptom. The mold will come back if the moisture does. Also: dark dust in ducts isn't always mold. Get it tested before committing to remediation.

CO is real, dangerous, and the reason you should have detectors on every level of your home. It comes from incomplete combustion — any gas appliance can produce it. The risk increases with cracked heat exchangers, blocked flues, and poor ventilation. The fear tactic: Some companies weaponize CO risk to sell equipment replacements. "Your system could be producing CO" isn't the same as "your system IS producing CO." Testing is straightforward with the right instrument. If someone claims CO risk, ask them to test with a combustion analyzer and show you the readings.

A cracked heat exchanger can be serious — it's the barrier between combustion gases and your home's air. But it's also the single most overdiagnosed issue in the HVAC industry. Why: A cracked heat exchanger = "you need a new furnace" = $5,000-$12,000 sale. What to do: If someone says your heat exchanger is cracked, ask for photos. Ask them to show you the crack. Ask for a combustion analysis showing elevated CO. If they can't provide visual evidence and test data, get a second opinion before replacing a $8,000 system based on someone's word.

Common HVAC repairs and their real cost: Capacitor: $10-$30 part, $150-$250 installed. Contactor: $20-$40 part, $150-$250 installed. Igniter: $20-$50 part, $150-$300 installed. Blower motor: $100-$300 part, $300-$700 installed. A company that says "your system is failing" because of a bad capacitor is like a mechanic saying you need a new car because of a dead battery. Know what parts cost. If a single repair exceeds 50% of replacement value, then consider replacing.

Replace based on condition, not calendar. A well-maintained 18-year-old system can outperform a neglected 10-year-old one. Signs it's genuinely time: compressor failure on an old unit (compressor alone costs nearly as much as a new system), repeated major repairs in a short period, or a verified cracked heat exchanger. Signs it's NOT time: age alone, minor part failures, someone telling you "it won't last another winter" without specific evidence.

If your furnace vents through a chimney, you have a crossover point. The furnace is HVAC territory. The chimney is chimney territory. The confusion: An HVAC company says "your chimney is the problem." A chimney company says "your furnace is the problem." Neither wants responsibility. What we do: We inspect the chimney and the connection point. If the issue is the furnace, we tell you. If it's the chimney, we fix it. If it's the connection between them, we figure out who should handle it and coordinate. No finger-pointing.

Older homes sometimes have a water heater and furnace sharing one chimney flue. This can work but creates unique issues — especially if one appliance gets replaced with a high-efficiency unit that no longer vents through the chimney. The risk: The remaining appliance on an oversized flue can have draft problems and condensation issues. If someone replaces your furnace and doesn't address the now-oversized shared flue, that's a detail that got missed. We check for this.